Small Bite: Raw Talent

Ignore those curmudgeonly chowhounds who grumble that the new Oishii in the South End isn’t as cozy as the original in Chestnut Hill. If they savor long waits in a cramped foyer at 9 on a weeknight, fine.


Ignore those curmudgeonly chowhounds who grumble that the new Oishii in the South End isn’t as cozy as the original in Chestnut Hill. If they savor long waits in a cramped foyer at 9 on a weeknight, fine. But for us more civilized folk, the long-awaited city location exceeds expectations. Instead of no ambiance, there’s a calming, two-story waterfall, low lighting, and—hooray!—well-spaced seating. The service is gracious; the sake list an inspiration; the tableware, especially the metallic ceramic bowls for soy sauce, breathtaking. The catch? It’s shockingly expensive. New York expensive. A sashimi appetizer of tuna, yellowtail, sweet shrimp, and wild salmon in ponzu sauce, exquisitely served atop a carved ice block, for example, costs $25. Two creamy Kumamoto oysters served with a dash of hot sauce are $9, and a few of the specialty maki rolls top $20. Looking for a bargain? Try the “real” California maki, $11, which forgoes that imitation stuff found in most California rolls in favor of sweet snow crabmeat.
1166 Washington St., Boston, 617-482-8868.