Small Bites: Bases Covered
“Elevated comfort food” is a phrase I’d like to ban from food writing. Skipping the orange processed stuff in mac ’n’ cheese doesn’t elevate it; it just makes it more comforting.
“Elevated comfort food” is a phrase I’d like to ban from food writing. Skipping the orange processed stuff in mac ’n’ cheese doesn’t elevate it; it just makes it more comforting. Chris Schlesinger and Jim Economides, owners of the new All Star Sandwich Bar in Inman Square, understand this. That’s why every sandwich on the menu is made with first-class ingredients, but the vibe remains casual, fun, and down-home.
Go early to sample the Beef on Weck, a warm pile of thinly shaved roast beef served with homemade horseradish and dipping jus—the kitchen sometimes runs out by 1 p.m. If you miss it, don’t despair: The All Star’s rendition of a New Orleans muffuletta, a satisfyingly messy mix of ham, salami, provolone, and capicola, is a treat. And with a smear of red-onion chutney and Schlesinger’s signature Inner Beauty hot sauce, the Atomic Meatloaf Meltdown, you might even say, has been elevated to a whole new level.
>> 1245 Cambridge St., Cambridge, 617-868-3065, allstarsandwichbar.com.
