The Dish: In the Pink

A champagne taste test reveals a rosé in full bloom.

Some people believe the priciest bubbly is always the best. If you’re one of them, read on. We gathered a panel of six tasters to sample this season’s chicest champagne: vintage rosés from the top French houses. Two of our picks gave our palates—and our wallets—reason to celebrate.

Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin 2000, $67
This bright, salmon-colored beauty had a delicious nose of wild strawberries and a beautiful structure, with bubbles that were fine—if a bit less persistent than we would have liked. But this champagne’s abundant fruit and lingering biscuit-y notes made it our winner.

Dom Pérignon Rosé 1996, $350
Like a true French lady, this gold-tinged blush sparkler has aged with style. Some tasters disliked the “barnyard” aromas derived from, and characteristic of, the pinot noir, but the tiny vigorous bubbles and round finish had more-experienced drinkers raising a glass.

Möet & Chandon Millésime Rosé 1999, $60
Though boasting a gorgeous pale raspberry color, this bubbly lacked the fruity nose and berry flavors that we crave in a rosé. Instead, it tasted like good, but rather traditional, champagne, with delicate and lasting bubbles, and a pleasantly yeasty finish.

>>All wines available at Martignetti Liquors, 1650 Soldiers Field Rd., Brighton, 617-782-3700,; and Bauer Wine & Spirits, 330 Newbury St., Boston, 617-262-0363,