Small Bites: Blue Ribbon Brunch

In praise of Pabst, exotic egg sandwiches, and grits. Sunday is just as it should be on the Other Side.

Now that its brief ironic-hipster-fueled comeback has passed, it’s hard to imagine anyone actually ordering a can of Pabst, let alone doing so before noon. Yet a complimentary 12-ounce is part of the Other Side Caf’s Blue Ribbon breakfast. And the weird thing is, in that context, it seems only natural. And kind of…tempting.

There are other oddly appealing touches, too: the eggs-in-a-nest sandwich, which fuses fried yolk with buttery toast and tops it with tomato, lettuce, bacon, and red onion; the grits, served in the kind of heavy-duty mugs that bounce when dropped; the plates of Texas-style migas, a casserole of eggs, salsa, cheese, and corn chips not often found in our very blue state. The tattooed waiters, who look as though they spend their off hours in art school, can be a little lax, and the Seattle-circa-1992 vibe isn’t for everyone. But if, like the restaurant itself, you’re willing to experiment, these glitches can be overlooked, especially if you’re nursing one of the Other Side’s bloody marys. Or that can of PBR.

407 Newbury St., Boston, 617-536-8437;