Small Bite: Reversing the Curse

Some restaurant spaces are just jinxed—and 560 Tremont seems to be one of them. Both acclaimed French bistro Truc and its delightful successor, Perdix, lamentably disappeared, despite their talented chefs and hip concepts.


Some restaurant spaces are just jinxed—and 560 Tremont seems to be one of them. Both acclaimed French bistro Truc and its delightful successor, Perdix, lamentably disappeared, despite their talented chefs and hip concepts. Following Perdix’s departure in January 2006, the space remained empty for months before another chef, Felino Samson, was brave enough to take up the challenge.

So far, so good. Samson, formerly of Bomboa, has redecorated the place like a 1930s supper club, with etched glass, gorgeous black and gold wallpaper, and comfy black-and-white striped chairs. But unlike his predecessors, he has steered clear of high-priced haute plates in favor of low-priced comfort food: giant Rhode Island stuffies; a flavorful burger topped with Swiss, bacon, and mushrooms; and, of course, the de rigueur roast chicken. No dish wowed us, but the portions are huge and the prices are right—nothing costs more than $20. Better yet, Pops is also open for lunch and weekend brunch. Stylish, cheap, and unchallenging may be just the combination to change this address’s luck.

560 Tremont St., Boston, 617-695-1250.