Rising Above the Herd

Mooo puts its elegant stamp on (yet another) Boston steakhouse.

Unlike the other newcomers in its now ubiquitous category (see “Year of the Cow”), Mooo, in the XV Beacon hotel, isn’t looking to reinvent the steakhouse. It just wants to do it better, more elegantly, and more expensively.

Yes, more expensively, and it succeeds. Consider the 6-ounce Kobe sirloin for $130 (add $2 for béarnaise sauce). Or the dry-aged sirloin from Four Story Hill for $65. Or the buttery prime New York sirloin for $39, which, for this place, is relatively modest.

The upside is, the food is quite good: Steaks are well seasoned, the house-made dinner rolls served in little Staub pans are addictive, and the Maine lobster salad elevates a New England staple to delicacy status. And it’s all served in a plush dining room that feels, appropriately, a bit regal. Despite our misgivings, we have to admit we were moooved in the end.

15 Beacon St., Boston, 617-670-2515, mooorestaurant.com. $$$$