Despite its somewhat hokey premise, Stix delivers satisfying late-night eats.
Stix, Stanhope Street’s newest lounge/restaurant, has a defining gimmick: meat, fish, and vegetables grilled on flavor-infused skewers. You can get duck on a citrus-rosemary stick, for example, or shrimp on Thai coconut-lime.
It’s a cute concept, but one that doesn’t always translate into tasty food. The steak on a honey-bourbon skewer lacked discernible flavor (though a side of sauce did help), as did the scallops on ginger-mango. Regular small plates fared better: Steamed mussels with lemongrass tasted pure and fresh; a plate of buffalo mozzarella drizzled with olive oil was evidence that simple is sometimes best.
Stealing a design page from sister restaurant 33, the mood lighting and the pop soundtrack seem customized for scenesters (Stix serves food until 1 a.m.). But this lounge has grownup appeal—you can hear yourself think, and talk.
35 Stanhope St., Boston, 617-456-7849, stixboston.com.
Source URL: http://www.bostonmagazine.com/2008/03/point-taken/