A Rare Breed

By Amy Traverso | Boston Magazine |

Here’s an unlikely pairing: a vegan raw food restaurant in the North End. Yet Grezzo (the name means "raw" in Italian) has been drawing solid crowds since its February opening. Yes, the place is tiny, but there seem to be plenty of curious, if not committed, Bostonians to fill it.
In the raw tradition, every dish is made from fruits, vegetables, nuts, seeds, or sprouted grains, and cooking temperatures are kept below 110 degrees to preserve natural enzymes. But where most raw eateries lean toward seed dip and sprouted pizza, Grezzo aims for fine dining. Results are mixed: The best dishes—"gnocchi" made from cashews, nut-based "ice creams"—are fresh and flavorful. Others, like a layered cylinder of mushroom and kelp, seem fussy, fibrous, and monotonously room temperature. And it’s not cheap: The chef’s tasting menu is $59 a head. Raw-foodists and vegans will appreciate this upscale option, but I’ll take my gnocchi boiled, thanks.

69 Prince St., Boston, 857-362-7288, grezzorestaurant.com.