Huge by-the-glass menus were once the province of deep-pocketed chains, which easily absorb spoiled bottles. But lately the city’s one-offs have ramped up their single-serving offerings: Clink has 34 wines on tap, Bouchée’s got 38, Bin 26 boasts a whopping 65. Since more partially poured bottles means a greater chance of getting oxidized plonk, though, it’s important to know how to game the system.
HEED THE CHEMIST
Fancy oxygen-repelling storage systems aren’t just for looks. Bin 26 and Troquet preserve opened bottles with nitrogen and argon, respectively, and the payoff is clear: pristine wine, vibrant bubbly.
FOLLOW THE PACK
Higher turnover yields fresher wine. At the Butcher Shop, the standing-room-only crowd and compact menu make every glassful a winner.
EMBRACE BRASH YOUTH
When in doubt, choose from big, young reds, like recent-vintage cabs or Barbarescos. These untamed upstarts require serious aging to mellow out the gnarly tannins, but several hours in an opened bottle does the job almost as well.
Source URL: http://www.bostonmagazine.com/2008/05/imbiber-beware/