Winsome Dim Sum

Traditional dim sum can feel a tad frenetic for a groggy weekend morn: wrestling for space at communal tables, competing for the attentions of pushcarts, negotiating menu translations. Winsor Dim Sum Café represents a refreshingly anti-stress option, forgoing the cart in favor of a checklist from which food is made to order and served in a succession of courses. Not one item we sampled was a dud, and many were stellar: Pork-and-peanut dumplings paired pillowy lightness with welcome crunch; fried pot stickers avoided the "dense meatball" effect that plagues lesser versions; thick, chewy noodles fried with sausage and tangy preserved radish were satisfying comfort food. The most novel dish was a deep-fried pork bun with a filling so sugary it tasted like dessert—and so good we ordered seconds. Ah, pork…the other fried sweet.

10 Tyler St., Boston, 617-338-1688.

Source URL: http://www.bostonmagazine.com/2008/06/winsome-dim-sum/