The 50 Best Restaurants 2009
31. Sage* This restaurant has been closed
Low: Yelp *** 1/2 Our score: 4
Once a North End upstart, now a South End hot spot, Sage remains a showcase for Tony Susi’s inventive Italian fare, like pillowy lobster gnocchi and Kobe beef carpaccio. Some under-whelmed Yelpers pulled the average down, citing consistency problems and steep prices—neither of which has marred our own experiences here.
ORDER THIS: Rice-smoked duck breast.
32. T. W. Food
Low: Phoenix ** Our score: 4
The beauty is in the details at this Huron Village bistro, yielding complex delicacies such as foie gras "crème brulée" with broiled sugar topping. Some flavor experiments go off the rails, but the kitchen’s skill can be breathtaking.
ORDER THIS: Berkshire pork loin and pan-fried trotter galette.
33. Locke-Ober
Low: Boston 3
This old-guard institution remains fixed in time, despite Lydia Shire’s much-touted "updating" of the menu and ancient interior. The food is tasty, however, and there’s something appealing about dining on liver and bacon amid such elegance.
ORDER THIS: Lobster stew.
34. Taranta
Low: Globe ** 1/2 Our score: 3.5
Peruvian cuisine is a dizzying fusion of Spanish, African, Asian, Italian, and French influences. At this North End spot, Peruvian meets southern Italian for an even headier mix.
ORDER THIS: Pork chop with sugar cane–rocoto pepper glaze.
35. Rendezvous
Low: Yelp *** 1/2 Our score: 3.75
Steve Johnson calls on Mediterranean flavors from North Africa to Italy, yet his best dishes come from local ingredients, like the rosemary grown on his roof.
ORDER THIS: Gascon duck three ways.
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36. L’Andana
Low: Globe ** 1/2 Our score: 4
Jamie Mammano of Mistral and Sorellina brings haute cuisine to the ‘burbs, with a Tuscan-inspired menu of pastas and grilled meats. Of his three properties on the list, this one is Boston’s favorite.
ORDER THIS: Veal chop with mushroom Marsala and polenta.
37. The Butcher Shop
Low: Chowhound 2.8
This ultimate carnivore’s haunt (and none-too-shabby wine bar) turns out expert charcuterie, plus pasta and meaty entrées like Kobe tri-tip with sweet-and-sour shallots.
ORDER THIS: Truffled tagliatelle.
38. Via Matta
Low: Herald ** Our score: 3.75
When Via Matta hits its groove, it produces the most authentic Italian food in the Hub; a standout is fedelini with tiny clams.
ORDER THIS: Crunchy eggplant with basil-marinated tomatoes and Reggiano.
39. Dante
Low: Herald B- Our score: 3.75
This riverside hotel restaurant serves just-tweaked-enough Italian classics. Our pick for "Best Italian" in 2008.
ORDER THIS: Any of the house-made spaghetti dishes.
40. Scampo
Low: Globe ** 1/2 Our score: 4
Lydia Shire is all about big flavors and big portions, but she always manages to stay her hand before things get too wacky. The result: creative dishes that still flat-out work.
ORDER THIS: Kurobuta pork.
