At a Glance: Allagash Waterway
Since the part of northern Maine you’re headed to is all about ice caves, moose, river rapids, and camping (regulations prohibit running water and electricity), it seems fitting to spend a final night in civilization at the cozy 5 LAKES LODGE in Millinocket. Off Rte. 11, Millinocket, 207-723-5045, 5lakeslodge.com.
Likewise, your meal plan in the Allagash consists of whatever you can kill, catch, or carry, so savor a last supper of maple syrup–marinated pork tenderloin at RIVER DRIVERS RESTAURANT. Off Rte. 11, Millinocket, 207-723-8475, neoc.com.
Campsites are peppered throughout the region, but those who must have a roof over their head can reserve a bare-bones cottage at NUGENT-MCNALLY CAMPS. Exit 244 off I-95, 207-944-5991, nugent-mcnallycamps.com.
Only experienced paddlers should navigate these powerful waterways alone; for the rest, companies like Northwoods Outfitters and Allagash Guide run four- to seven-day canoeing trips. 5 Lily Bay Rd., Greenville, 866-223-1380, maineoutfitter.com; 292 River Rd., Norridgerock, 207-634-3748, allagashguide.com.
At the end of the line, hit up the quirky TWO RIVERS LUNCH for hearty comfort food by husband-and-wife team Tylor and Leitha Kelly. 75 Dickey Rd., Allagash, 207-398-3393, allagashhunting.com.