Menuology: Top-Secret Tuna (and Other Furtive Fare)
Ever since we got wise to Gaslight’s addictive Parisian street burger (see Consumer Index, April), an unlisted ground beef–stuffed baguette ($12.95), we’ve wondered how many other treats we’d missed by ordering off the printed menu like naifs. Quite a few, it turns out.
Eastern Standard The Kenmore brasserie’s French onion soup is a clandestine crock of beef broth topped with rustic bread and bubbling Gruyère ($8). For dessert, in-the-know sweet tooths go for the stellar profiteroles ($3 each). 528 Commonwealth Ave., Boston, 617-532-9100, easternstandardboston.com.
Franklin Café Sushi-grade tuna is so pricey that this neighborhood boîte prefers not to advertise its delectable tuna tartare ($9). The dense, silky morsels are tossed with chive oil, dolloped with sweet sesame-ginger aioli, and served with crispy crostini. 278 Shawmut Ave., Boston, 617-350-0010; 152 Dorchester Ave., Boston, 617-269-1003; franklincafe.com.
Garden at the Cellar Cantabrigians spend boozy nights at this epicurean tavern, then stumble back in the next day for its all-day egg sandwich: two half-runny eggs, aged Vermont cheddar, local bacon, avocado, and rosemary-Dijon aioli on a buttery brioche bun ($9). Rosemary-truffle fries included. 991 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge, 617-230-5880, gardenatthecellar.com.
Craigie On Main Spontaneous menu-wrangling is chef Tony Maws’s specialty, but his by-request-only roasted bone marrow is invariably on hand: decadent beef bones ($10), split lengthwise for easy scooping, with plenty of fleur de sel and toasted country bread. 853 Main St., Cambridge, 617-497-5511, craigieonmain.com.