Boston magazine: March 2010: The Menu: The Ultimate: Fish and Chips: Squealing Pig
With St. Pat’s on the horizon, there’s a good chance you’ll find yourself in a pub sometime this month—and nothing pairs better with a pint than fish and chips. Sadly, these offerings are oily and underseasoned at many restaurants, but the Squealing Pig in Mission Hill cooks up a notable exception. The pub’s thick-cut cod fillets, which come from Hub purveyor Captain Marden’s Seafoods, are beer-battered and deep-fried to golden-brown perfection. The fish emerges shatteringly crisp on the outside and flaky on the inside. Served with handcut fries, zingy tartar sauce, and a simple cabbage slaw, it’ll fill your belly without giving you a grease hangover. (Avoiding any other type of hangover, however, is up to you.) 134 Smith St., Boston, 617-566-6651, squealingpigboston.com.
*** 1/2 The Druid: Served in a newspaper wrap, the Druid’s version wins points for its authenticity and flavorful breading, but the crust is a wee bit soggy. 1357 Cambridge St., Cambridge, 617-497-0965, druidpub.com.
*** PJ Ryan’s: The pleasantly thin, perfectly crispy chips are accompanied by slightly tough (perhaps over-fried) fish. 239 Holland St., Somerville, 617-625-8200, pjryans.com.
*** J.J. Foley’s: A high grease factor plagues this otherwise tasty beer-battered filet. 117 E. Berkeley St., Boston, 617-728-9101, jjfoleyscafe.com.
** Courthouse Seafood: A crispy outer layer on the fish doesn’t make up for the undercooked chips. 498 Cambridge St., East Cambridge, 617-491-1213, courthouseseafood.com.