Dining Out: Bistro du Midi
More great seafood comes to Boston. Only this time, it’s by way of Provence
One of the restaurant’s luxuries is having a dedicated pastry chef — a rising star from New York named Sarah Ewald, straight from Eleven Madison Park. She’s got a talent for nougat, a Mediterranean sweet that’s hard to make fresh, requiring the right combination of syrup, egg whites, and nuts. She makes both white and chocolate versions, wraps them in cellophane, seals them in a jar, and sends them to the table after dessert. Boston’s finest are opening their purses and emptying out those jars before they go home. These could be the new macarons.
Ewald is also excellent (as this magazine noted last month) at a molten chocolate cake ($8) that, living up to the ecstatic promises of the maitre d’, erupts with chocolate. (Ignore the request from the waiter at the beginning of the meal to preorder a soufflé: The chocolate one ($10) is a drier, duller, barely puffy version of the cake, and tastes as if it was made in advance.) And the nougat ice cream that comes with the molten cake is even better. Sisca told me that repeat customers from the Four Seasons come in asking for a dish of that alone. I understood: It’s easy to get a jones for. I’ll be back for bouillabaisse. And with empty jacket pockets waiting to be stuffed with after-dinner treats. <br>272 Boylston St., Boston, 617-426-7878, bistrodumidi.com.
Marinated octopus ($11)
Chestnut soup ($8)
Classic bouillabaisse ($27)
Grilled sea bass ($24)
Prawns in butter sauce with dried tomatoes ($17)
Molten chocolate cake ($8)