Dining Out: Evoo

The location may have changed, but chef Peter McCarthy’s cuisine still keeps diners on their toes.

Luck of the draw it may often be. But there’s that steak, and the chef’s overall skills, and the longtime servers who treat everyone like regulars. And when McCarthy shows elegant restraint and pinpoints something briefly in-season, a dish can be fairly perfect. An appetizer of pan-fried Maryland shad roe with homemade lamb bacon lardons, Eva’s Garden pea greens, and addictive waffle potato chips ($10) was a knockout, the roe crisp on the outside and soft within, the bacon an ideal and not-overpowering counterpoint. Bluefish baked in mustard glaze with golden-beet risotto, pickled green tomatoes, and onion rings ($25) was every bit as great as the tenderloin.

In its new space, as with its last, Evoo is worth the gamble. Trust your luck, or hedge your bets by ordering the always-available menu items, and you can be rewarded with a jackpot meal.

350 Third St., Cambridge, 617-661-3866, evoorestaurant.com.