Dining Out: Bergamot

Keith Pooler’s new Somerville restaurant is a lovely place to dine – even if it overdoes the whimsy.

($9), unfortunately, tastes like another steamed pudding, though it isn’t meant to. Guajillo chili-chocolate pave ($10) features marvelously gritty, chili-infused Taza chocolate, a malty milk-stout ice cream, apricot confit, and crushed pretzels. It’s successful, if something of an oddity.

Bergamot is like that: odd, but appealing, and almost always agreeable. Opt for the blackboard menu and order a couple of seasonal sides, and you’ll wish Bergamot well, too.

Bergamot, 118 Beacon St. Somerville, 617-576-7700, bergamotrestaurant.com