Small Bite: Bosphorus
A review of Inman Square's newest Turkish restaurant.
On looks alone, the dining room at Bosphorus, a new Turkish restaurant in Inman Square, has the makings of a hot spot: Walls are washed in spicy red; banquettes are capped with gauzy orange tents. The place might even get closer to â€śItâ€ť status once a full liquor license is secured. (Drinks are limited to wine and beer for now.)
But if Bosphorus doesnâ€™t get its kitchen in order, those good looks will be for naught. Unlike at Oleana, located just a few blocks away, the food is neither fully authentic nor a skilled interpretation of Turkish fare. Instead, the restaurant serves watered-down classics: underseasoned manti (Turkish dumplings) filled with tough meat; greasy borek (savory pastries); and hummus that failed to leave much of an impression. If only the pita were homemade or the boiled vegetables werenâ€™t overcooked.
There are highlights, though: tender lamb chops and, for dessert, semolina-and-almond pastries called sekerpare. But until the kitchen starts taking cues from the decorator, weâ€™ll keep our eye out for the next hot thing.
1164 Cambridge St., Cambridge, 617-945-2730, bosphoruscambridge.com.
Source URL: http://www.bostonmagazine.com/2011/03/small-bite-bosphorus/