Shell-Shocked

By Alexandra Hall | Boston Magazine |

 scallop seviche

Les Zygomates photograph by Anthony Tieuli

Les Zygomates

Come for the vaguely Parisian bordello vibe and warm chocolate cake; stay for the unexpectedly epic raw bar. After sampling a cluster of oysters (from Kumamotos to Malpeques) and cups of salty periwinkles, move on to the beautifully iridescent scallop ceviche and call it a meal. 129 South St., Boston, 617-542-5108, winebar.com.

Erbaluce

Patrons may pile into chef Charles Draghi’s enoteca for his much-ballyhooed
wild boar, but along the way they’ll often detour to his seafood dishes: razor clams with fennel; mussels steamed with rosemary and saffron; and mako shark with cherry-tomato salsa. 69 Church St., Boston, 617-426-6969, erbaluce-boston.com.

Grill 23

Even the most ardent carnivores eventually (begrudgingly) admit that this beloved steakhouse is actually a seafood joint at heart. Proof: mahi mahi with Maine shrimp; crab cakes jacked up with a generous dose of coriander; and a glorious tuna tartare spiked with ginger syrup and cilantro sorbet. 161 Berkeley St., Boston, 617-542-2255, grill23.com.

Lineage

Okay, this one isn’t too surprising, given chef-owner Jeremy Sewall’s history — helming the now-closed Great Bay and, these days, Island Creek Oyster Bar. Even so, a Coolidge Corner bistro with a wood-fired oven hardly seems the place for dishes like seared red snapper with romesco, chorizo, and fried capers, or red wine–braised baby squid. But trust us: It is. 242 Harvard st., Brookline, 617-232-0065, lineagerestaurant.com.