Small Bite at Redbones Rib Shack

By Maggie Brooks | Boston Magazine |

THE FOLKS AT Somerville’s Redbones have taken the next step toward citywide barbecue domination with their new rib shack in Kendall Square. The menu — an abridged version of the mothership’s selection — is full of fresh-from-the-smoker basics done mostly right. The St. Louis–style ribs are on the fatty side, but the smoky bark and juicy meat are worth the required extra Wet-Naps. The four sauces, which range from vinegary to sweet, are self-serve, meaning you can douse the pulled-pork and pulled-chicken sandwiches to your mouth’s content. Skip the sides, like bland baked beans, in favor of an extra rack of ribs to take home. As for the awkward hours (11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday to Friday only, so you can’t really grab dinner), less-than-welcoming staff, and unreliable credit card machine, we hope they’re fixed soon, so they don’t detract from the food. The biggest question, of course, is whether crowds will be willing to brave the cold for some ’cue during ice-skating season.

300 Athenaeum St., Cambridge, 617-628-2200, redbones.com.