Mexican Food in Boston, Part Dos
The south-of-the-border dining trend takes an authentic turn in the city's restaurants.
The Painted Burroâ€™s tacos, from left: steak asada, $15; pork cochinita, $11; chorizo with farm egg and potato, $12. (Photos by Dave Bradley, food styling by Rowena Day/Ennis.)
WE USED TO COMPLAIN about Bostonâ€™s lack of Mexican food (other than burritos). But over the past two years, close to a dozen restaurants have popped up everywhere from the Back Bay to the Seaport, bringing with them 100-bottle tequila lists, ornate interiors, and techy trappings like iPad menus. Though our appetite for flashy fare has yet to subside (the New Yorkâ€“based chain Rosa Mexicano is setting up shop in the Seaport this spring), a second wave of new restaurants is now bringing authentic cooking and tequilas galore, without the clubby extras.
For the team behind Allstonâ€™s Lone Star Taco Bar, who also operate Deep Ellum next door, the goal was simply to create a great hangout. â€śWe wanted to do Mexican street food thatâ€™s casual, with good drinks,â€ť says chef-owner Rian Wyllie. That means a menu featuring traditional tacos, tostadas, and micheladas. â€śItâ€™s food that a lot of people in the industry â€” chefs and bartenders â€” like to eat,â€ť he says.
At the Painted Burro in Davis Square, youâ€™ll find tacos and guacamole, but also more-ambitious plates, such as whole red snapper done Veracruz-style (steamed in a banana leaf with tomatoes, olives, capers, epazote â€” a type of weed used in Mexican cuisine â€” and Ăˇrbol chilies). â€śItâ€™s very dramatic when it comes to the table and the aroma wafts out of it,â€ť says chef-owner Joe Cassinelli. â€śWhen somebody sees it in the dining room, [we get] five more orders.â€ť
Drama from the food, rather than the surroundings? Weâ€™ll raise a margarita to that.
Source URL: http://www.bostonmagazine.com/2012/05/mexican-food-boston-goes-authentic/