Small Bite at Tonic
Tonic aims to bring a touch of class to Forest Hills, but badly needs front-of-the-house help.
Led by chef Ryan Kelly (a vet of Canary Square and Clio), Tonic aims to bring a touch of class to J.P.â€™s Forest Hills neighborhood. Unfortunately, the dĂ©cor tries too hard: The tables in the dining room would fit in at a Back Bay hotel, while the barâ€™s white-cocoa-mint martinis and neon-green lighting make it seem like an old set from Sex and the City.
The seasonally changing fare makes up for the setting, but youâ€™ll have to wait (and wait) for it. Forty-five minutes after finishing our appetizer, our entrĂ©es had yet to appear. Once the food came, though, it was quite good: A tuna-tartare-topped â€śbanh mi saladâ€ť ($12) was a refined version of the street-food sandwich, while roast duck ($20) was balanced by a pear-and-ramp chutney. However, scallops with daikon radish ($25, pictured above) arrived undercooked.
Kelly clearly knows his way around the stove, but he badly needs front-of-the-house help. After all, itâ€™s hard to become a go-to spot when customers feel second-rate.
3698 Washington St., Jamaica Plain, 617-522-4131, tonicboston.com.
Source URL: http://www.bostonmagazine.com/2012/06/tonic-restaurant-forest-hills/