Small Bite: Otto Pizza Coolidge Corner
Everything you need to know about this new Brookline pizza joint
This Portland, Maine, pizza institution first showed us what it was made of in 2011, when its Harvard Square to-go spot generated buzz for a superlative butternut squash-cranberry ricotta pie. For the new Coolidge Corner outpost, the team created a much bigger space, complete with a dining room, soft lighting, and a large bar.
The unexpected toppings here somehow make sense on a thin, crisp crust. Potatoes, for example, combined with bacon and scallions for a wonderfully dense mashed-potato pie ($12 for a small) that was almost like pub-grub potato skins. Mangoes, meanwhile, gave a spicy pulled-pork pizza ($11 for a small, pictured above) a subtly sweet flavor. And a classic margherita ($11 for a small), with lots of sliced tomatoes and strips of basil, was a traditionalist’s dream.
Any concerns about whether Otto can handle more than grab-and-go (though you can still do that here) were quickly eased. We’ll happily linger over a few pies and pints the next time we’re headed to Brookline.
289 Harvard St., Brookline, 617-232-0014, ottoportland.com.