Restaurant Review: Strip-T’s in Watertown

restaurant review: strip-t's in watertown

Roasted striped bass with red curry, $22.

It’s imaginative stuff, but that doesn’t mean Maslow is above using some of the packaged ingredients his father, Paul, did. So his “wicked small caesar” ($4) has some things in common with his dad’s version, which he says includes lemon juice from a supermarket squeeze bottle and “super-cheap Parm.” But the chef now insists on local romaine from purveyors like Kimball Farm, a dressing made of pasteurized egg and Dijon mustard, and hand-toasted, paprika-dusted croutons that come from Iggy’s baguettes. The salad was pretty much perfect.

So were vegetables that seldom get the star treatment Maslow gives them: cauliflower, plunged raw into a deep fryer (a trick he learned at Momofuku) until they’re a rich brown, served over a smooth sauce of hand-puréed chorizo and chicken stock ($8); grilled sweet peas ($6) served like edamame but with one side open, the peeking peas marvelously charred and coated with a peppery soy-Aleppo rub; sautéed mushrooms in butter and thyme ($8)—standard, until you learn how Maslow accentuates the woodiness: with a spruce-needle garnish.

ADVERTISMENT

  • http://sumnertyme@gmail.com Norma Sumner

    I hope I didn’t subscribe to Boston Magazine on line. I have been looking forward to receiving my subscription in the mail. This is not convenient for me.

  • Lesley

    I started going to StripT’s when they opened in 1986. Back then it was Paul, George (since departed), and some really excellent meals. I lived right up the street, and tumbled in there, many a day, for the best food in town.

    In my opinion, they’ve been ‘on the map’ for years – you go, guys!

  • Jake Johnson

    This looks like some great ma restaurant. I want to find some good places to eat. I will have to go check this place out.