Restaurant Review: West Bridge in Cambridge

This Kendall Square newcomer has potential in spades, but feels incomplete.
restaurant review west bridge in cambridge

West Bridge’s industrial-looking Kendall Square space.

Gaudet’s studied technique makes for two dishes that qualify as Boston insta-classics. The “egg in a jar” ($12), a duck egg cooked in a water bath so that both the white and yolk are creamy, was served over a buttery Yukon Gold purée and roasted maitake mushrooms and topped with Turkish pepper and a weighted slice of crisped duck skin. Every bit of it was pleasingly rich.

The other should-be signature is a creative take on the classic s’more ($7). Also layered and served in a glass, it featured homemade marshmallow fluff (slightly less sweet and much creamier than the original) and graham-cracker crumbs toasted in brown butter and cinnamon. At the bottom there was miso caramel and a homemade chocolate pudding, really a panna cotta, made with very good chocolate. You’ll scrape the glass for every last spoonful.

Most of West Bridge, though, seems like it’s waiting to be finished. I hope that the owner and chef, with their obvious talent and enthusiasm, will fill in the blanks with something more than noise.

Other Menu Highlights:

Local-lettuce salad, $7
Roast lamb shoulder, $45
S’mores, $7

Critic Corby Kummer—an editor at The Atlantic and author of The Pleasures of Slow Food—has been reviewing Greater Boston’s top restaurants in our pages since 1997.

Corby Kummer Corby Kummer, Contributing Editor at Boston Magazine