Restaurant Review: Kitchen in South End
Scott Herritt’s new South End restaurant is a welcome glimpse into the past.
Mushrooms “under glass,” $15 (Photos by Anthony Tieuli)
Anybody who enjoys poring over our regional culinary history to understand how people once ate—or, really, anyone who just enjoys reading cookbooks—will be excited by Kitchen, Scott Herritt’s eccentric, lovable new restaurant in the South End. For food-history buffs, it’s a dream restaurant, one that answers the question, How did those foods I’ve only read about actually taste? Herritt uses recipes from a wide variety of sources—Hannah Glasse’s Art of Cookery, the original 1931 edition of The Joy of Cooking, the writings of James Beard and M.F.K. Fisher—to present a kind of cavalcade of American cuisine: western pork and beans; high-style dishes a Vanderbilt would have ordered at Delmonico’s, in New York; the sole meunière that changed Julia Child’s life.
But even if none of that interests you, even if all you’re after is a great meal, you should still eat at Kitchen, located in a semi-basement that has housed successive independent restaurants, most recently Pops. Herritt is producing food that’s both thought-provoking and very good.