The Four Seasoned Traveler

The reason to visit Stowe, Vermont, in winter is obvious. In autumn, too, when the ski town pops with brilliant orange. But come that insufferably damp period New Englanders loosely call spring, Stowe's charms turn elusive.

Which is why the new Stowe Mountain Lodge—opening during the height of this year's Mud Season—plans to lure travelers during off-peak months with a carefully crafted roster of all-weather activities. “To build, staff, and launch a $110 million lodge for less than 12 months of business just doesn't make sense,” says Jim Horsman, the resort's vice president.

It's a truth the rest of our area's best resorts are also —finally—beginning to grasp. Years of mild winters have hit local lodges hard, and dwindling lift lines and frantic snowmaking have put many ski havens in the red. Destinations that were once all about winter now promote guided nature hikes and fly fishing.

Without a doubt, this all-season trend helps resorts. But it's also a boon to travelers, who can find new ways to enjoy places they already know and love. Bottom line: Peak season is right now, no matter what it says on the calendar.


Stowe Mountain Lodge
Nature meets nurture at the area's newest luxury oasis.

By Jane Black

It's taken more than 15 years for the lodge to become a reality. Environmental groups had their say, as did locals skeptical of jetsetting weekenders spoiling the quiet community vibe.

But the 139-room resort already looks good for everyone. In exchange for its 35 acres, the owners donated 2,000 for conservation, and its golf course lake provides water for snowmaking. The Lodge elevates Stowe's Dirty Dancing resort–style feel to a level of luxury on par with Aspen or Telluride. Nobody puts Baby in a corner here, unless it's in an embossed-leather chair by the fire.

There's black-diamond skiing on Mount Mansfield or the gentler slopes of Spruce Peak. (Either way, the Alpine Concierge will have your tuned skis and warmed boots waiting at the lift for your first run.) In warmer months there's golf and hiking, including personalized nature tours.

And then there's the Lodge itself, a soaring glass and stone construction with views from every private balcony. Guests who tear themselves out of their marble “relaxation” tubs can visit the 21,000-square-foot spa for a “non-surgical facial,” or shop the on-site Shackleton-Thomas pottery boutique. Indeed, there's so much to do that it's hard to imagine packing it all into a single trip. Which, of course, is exactly what the designers had in mind.

Stowe Mountain Lodge
7412 Mountain Rd., Stowe, VT, 802-253-3560, stowemountainlodge.com.
AMENITIES: Spa and wellness center, yoga and Pilates studio, 18-hole Bob Cupp golf course, indoor/outdoor swimming pool, restaurant, bar, takeout and poolside café, ski-in/ski-out access to Spruce Peak, gondola transfer to Mount Mansfield
ACTIVITIES: Skiing and snowboarding, snowshoe tours, golf, Orvis fly-fishing clinics, hiking, biking, nature tours, spa treatments, nutrition counseling, cooking classes, alpine slide, bungee trampoline
WHAT'S NEW: Everything!
NUMBER OF ROOMS: 139
COST PER NIGHT: $435–$3,780

The Balsams Grand Resort
A luxurious blast from a more civilized past.

By Francis Storrs

The Mellons and the DuPonts summered at the Balsams, and it isn't hard to see why. Compared with the glitz of today's corporate mega-resorts, this 140-year-old stalwart exudes a decidedly dignified air. Wandering the manicured grounds, we reveled in the preternatural absence of cell-phone chatter and laptop tapping. The snug (though well-appointed) guestrooms don't even have TVs—not that it ever occurred to us to miss them.

In fact, a stay at the Balsams is not unlike a trip to the summer lodges of yesteryear, albeit with better manners and a tastier mess hall. Active guests can explore two golf courses, six tennis courts, and the rest of the resort's 15,000 mountainside acres. Snowy weather means skiing on a private mountain; in more mild weather, there's swimming and boating on Lake Gloriette. Of course, kicking back in an Adirondack chair on the porch and sipping a sidecar is activity enough for many (the kids can play in daycare).

Evenings are capped off by lavish five-course dinners featuring expertly prepared comfort food followed by ballroom dancing or classic movies. At breakfast, servers remember your name and how you take your coffee. A good thing, too: Such trivial details have a funny way of escaping relaxation-addled brains.

The Balsams Grand Resort
1000 Cold Spring Rd., Dixville Notch, NH, 877-225-7267, thebalsams.com.
AMENITIES: Five dining venues; 95-acre alpine ski area; 63 miles of cross-country ski, hiking, and biking paths; movie theater, game room, full-service hair salon and spa; two golf courses, heated outdoor pool, six tennis courts, lake
ACTIVITIES: Badminton, basketball, volleyball, horseshoes, croquet, bocce, shuffleboard, hiking, mountain biking, snowshoeing, ice skating, arcade games, billiards, fly-fishing, dancing, cooking demonstrations, swimming, kayaking, canoeing
WHAT'S NEW: Pet-friendly wing, renovated ballroom, Defining Touch Salon & Day Spa
NUMBER OF ROOMS: 185 (plus 18 suites)
COST PER NIGHT: $338–$598