Best of Boston

2006 BEST Sushi

Fugakyu

The old-school Japanese-themed décor may be a bit hokey, but this Brookline institution still offers adventurous eaters an unrivaled selection of creative rolls, such as spicy cod roe with squid and scallion and grilled pineapple, crab, and cucumber. Traditionalists will be equally sated by the sublimely fresh nigiri, which kimono-clad staffers deliver literally by the boatload.

1280 Beacon St. Brookline 617-734-1268 fugakyu.net