Best of Boston

Tony Maws isn’t one of those chefs who tries to make it look easy. In his new Central Square digs, the open kitchen takes center stage, providing an unobstructed view of exactly how that (Vermont organic) lamb three ways and (Maine dayboat) halibut get onto the plate. Maws even spells out his principles on the Craigie website, including ‘First we find the ingredients, then we create the menu’—which means that every day he’s sourcing what’s local, in season, and, for the most part, organic. By degrees, Maws takes it further than anyone else in town, and his work is your reward.