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We searched high and low for another candidate, but we've found ourselves hopelessly devoted to Connors' thought-provoking, palate-pleasing, meal-punctuating desserts. He breaks away from the pack with such confectionary coups as sorbet made from Banyuls wine, tuiles made from buckwheat flour, and ice cream made from mushrooms. And his crème brûlée ought to be in a pastry museum somewhere. There's a reason why Connors reigns as pastry chef three years running. In a word: perfection.