On weekends Johnny's teems with families. But step in for any preworkday fuel-up and you'll encounter an entirely different feel. The retro red vinyl booths and bright checkerboard floor are still there, of course, but the chaos is gone. Patrons linger over porridge with apples and cranberries, and plates heaped with feather-light buttermilk pancakes. Splurge on the oversize servings of cheese blintzes or catch one of the breakfast specials for $4 or less. It's all so good, you may just find yourself craving French toast come dinnertime.