Sonsie-bashing had become such a popular sport for a while, the ensuing recoil could only have put the place back in vogue. Well, here's at least one hard-hitting reason to quit caviling: the martinis. To start, simply sit back and admire the presentation: A gargantuan, perfectly chilled glass arrives empty, frosty, and luminous. Then the fetching bartenders (ours had an uncanny resemblance to the French lover in Unfaithful) quickly and efficiently shake, ice, add the perfect amount of vermouth, and pour. Just one inspires great conversation.