Fugakyu

In a town with few serious contenders, Fugakyu is the closest East Coasters can come to West Coast-level sushi bliss. Bypass the always epic wait for a table (and, we regret to report, the often snappish hostesses) by heading to the bar, the better to dive straight into a plate of briny sea urchin, savory-sweet broiled eel, or rich and fleshy salmon sashimi punctuated with fresh daikon. If toro (unctuous, sweet tuna belly) is available, don't miss it. It's raw pleasure.