Ever since Europe found itself firmly on Dubya's bad side (and the dollar took a nosedive), the idea of traveling overseas for a café-and-culture fix has grown a little less appealing. No matter. With its continental feel and sidewalk-side tables (not to mention its potent, delicious espresso), Sonsie can supply your Eurofix. Of course, it takes more than attitude to make a great neighborhood restaurant, and chef Bill Poirier takes care of that by serving up temping, fashionable fare, from brick-oven pizzas to café classics like steak au poivre. And now that the downstairs Red Room lounge provides a place for cocktails and late-night revelry with the restaurant's own soundtrack mix, who needs Europe?