Beijing House

Chef Kwok Cheng's specialties include most of the usual suspects (lemon chicken, Dragon and Phoenix, the ubiquitous Family Delight), but Beijing House is much more Chinatown than anonymous suburban strip mall. The spring rolls, always the first and surest sign of quality, arrive hot, crispy, full of meat (not yesterday's wilting bean sprouts), and almost greaseless. The lightly battered wedges of lemon chicken are unusually crisp, and the Beijing sesame shrimp could be the closest you'll get to Chinatown without having to take the Orange Line.