You won't find any California rolls at chef Ken Oringer's new sashimi bar, Uni. What you will find is the most unbelievably fresh raw fish this side of Tokyo, prepared in the most imaginative ways we've ever seen. We consider the fact that there are even any competitors in the sashimi category a giant leap forward for Boston, a town that until recently had few decent sushi restaurants, which is why this year we created an entirely new category to separate the brave (those who relish the delicate flavor of uncooked fish) from the beginners (those who prefer their fish in a maki roll). Oringer's menu at the intimate Uni varies depending on what has been flown in that day (sometimes live—Oringer loves to prepare his own fresh eel), which he serves straight up or in delicately balanced preparations like the decadent uni spoon, a mouthful of sea urchin, quail egg, osetra caviar, and chives, or the mirugai (giant clam) sashimi with wasabi leaves and red pickled onion. And with a creative drink menu (the subtly spicy "Enter the Dragon" is not to be missed) and extensive sake selection, we expect that Uni will continue making experts out of those beginners.