In a town with no shortage of commendable Thai restaurants, everyone has a favorite. But House of Siam wins us over with both big-picture style and thoughtful details. The duck with red curry alone is worth the trip--perfumed with sweet coconut milk and studded with eggplant and bright-flavored basil. Ditto the "Five King", an aromatic mix of plump shrimp, fried fish, squid, scallops, and mussels in a chile-laden broth. Dive into all of it seated among miniature beaded lamps, curly bamboo, and gilded fixtures set against brick-red walls. Then try to tell us that all Thai restaurants are the same.