Whatever you do, don't call Cat Silirie a sommelier. That title conjures up a tastevin-toting snob stealing sips of your wine. Silirie is too modest--and tasteful--to affect such hauteur, preferring instead to work behind the scenes, where she has created a service staff of "total sommeliers." Six days a week, Silirie conducts tastings and quizzes for the entire waitstaff--with homework. It may sound intense, but when the coat check attendant asks if you enjoyed your grüner veltliner, you realize Silirie's handiwork instills a passion for wine unparalleled in most other restaurants anywhere.