La Morra

With its wooden beams and exposed-brick interior, La Morra has the feel of a rustic retreat in the Italian Alps (if you ignore the cars roaring by on Route 9). Chef and co-owner Josh Ziskin packs flavor onto every plate, from the tapas-size cicchetti (Venetian snacks) to entrées such as the perfectly charred small chicken with pea tendrils and grilled potatoes.