Yes, it’s in a shopping plaza (albeit an upscale one). And yes, it’s technically a chain. But step inside and such details fade away. The gold-ceilinged trattoria is packed nightly with yuppies lounging around on ample outdoor seating, schmoozing at the indoor bar, and lingering over sambuca-steamed P.E.I. mussels and assorted raw-bar creations. The weekend brunch highlights seafood and a do-it-yourself bloody mary bar.