Rachel Klein

Best of Boston 2006 Chef, New

Any chef who can transform a Harvard Square music store into a destination for cutting-edge cuisine is really cooking. (Forgive uswe had to write more than 300 of these things.) Oms Rachel F. Klein, who arrived this winter from New York via Providence, rejects the usual steak and salmon for fresh, inventive dishes that are both conventional and pleasing to the palate. Our favorite, if we have to pick just one: the Okinawa squashstuffed ravioli served with wood-grilled olives in a spicy Thai broth. 92 Winthrop St., Cambridge, 617-576-2800, www.omrestaurant.com.