Thinking different can be risky in the restaurant world. Steve Johnson’s Rendezvous has bucked every convention and still succeeded. His takeover of a defunct Burger King in Central Square—not the most auspicious location—has bolstered the neighborhood’s culinary credentials. And his food has pushed the boundaries of traditional Mediterranean to include the exotic flavors of North Africa: A starter of plump scallops is crusted with toasty coriander; the skate entrée is roasted Moroccan-style and served with fragrant Meyer lemon and brown butter. Sometimes, risk can bring delicious rewards.
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