Sorellina

Dinner at Sorellina can cost as much as a flight to Italy, but at least here the life-altering food comes without jet lag. The hearty pappardelle with rabbit ragu is a bowl of Bologna, the delicate beet-filled ravioli further evidence to support the Italians’ long-held claim that they taught the French everything they know about gastronomy. The only inauthentic items—and this is a good thing—are Shane Gray’s desserts, which best their often disappointing Italian counter-parts: The impossibly light semifreddo is the finest we’ve ever had, here or abroad.