Just when you thought Craigie Street couldn’t get any better, it finds new ways to impress. Chef Tony Maws sends you a handwritten card for your anniversary. The kindly server digs out the last bottle of a wine you had in France and never dreamed you’d find again. And the food! Even with our sky-high expectations, we’re consistently amazed that Maws can make white asparagus topped with meaty crab and quail’s egg (or, for that matter, pig’s ear and monkfish liver) so ethereal. The only possible shortcoming is the not-exactly-capacious subterranean setting. But keep your ears open: There’s talk that Maws may soon move his operation to more commodious digs.