Allium

These days it’s the rare restaurant debut that doesn’t try to attract diners with hard-to-pronounce entrées and “inventive” food pairings. But chef Joe Nastro’s New American spot at the tip of Railroad Street plays it straight. Servers wind through the Quaker-style, lime-green main room—cheekily separated from the bar by chicken wire—bearing locally sourced dishes short on pretension (a fluke crudo accompanied by nothing more than a simple drizzle of oil) and long on flavor (pork tenderloin over polenta with thin leek crisps).