As sushi has gone mainstream, its become increasingly run-of-the-mill: rolls, rolls, and more rolls, with too much rice and tasteless (and, frequently, cooked) fish. O Ya doesnt even offer rolls, just sparklingly fresh sashimi and nigiriincluding heretofore unseen specialties like big-eye red snapper, conch, and Santa Barbara spot prawn. With a surgeons precision, chef-owner Tim Cushman and his line of sushi sous pair each fish with thoughtfully chosen exotic adornments like Thai basil and torched banana pepper mousse, and one of dozens of house-made sauces. The resultslike the bluefin tataki with smoky pickled onions and truffle oilare transporting.