O Ya

It's probably impossible to top the breathless praise that's already been heaped on this gem of a sushi boîte. But here goes: The year-old Leather District sensation is so blatantly head and fins above the other raw-fish specialists in town that we had to create a second award ("Japanese, Affordable" to restore a modicum of suspense to the category. For the admittedly astronomical prices, there's still great value to be found at O Ya. See: creamy toro cheek sushi with salty nori glaze, wispy Japanese leeks, and bracing lemon oil ($24).