Oleana

As cliche as it is to praise Middle Eastern food for its "sensuality" or "exoticism," Oleana devotees are hard-pressed to describe the cuisine here without noting both. From the silky, butter-enriched hummus pure wrapped with basturma, an Armenian cured meat, to the melting short ribs glazed with tamarind, chef-owner Ana Sortun takes diners on a journey through the souks and spice markets that inspire her cooking. In a happy daze, they follow.