When a city chef branches out to the 'burbs, it's generally assumed that somethingservice, culinary ingenuity, aestheticswill get lost in the move. Then there's L'Andana. While some of chef Jamie Mammano's Italian-tinged offerings, like Maine lobster tortellini, are inspired by Sorellina's menu, they're as flawless in mall-land as they are in the Back Bay. Equally excellent are the smoky steaks, chops, and seafood turned out by the wood grill. For dishes this spectacularand for the creamiest buffalo mozzarella this side of Napoliwe'll leave the city limits in a heartbeat.