Pigalle

The fourth member of our party was late. Family-emergency late. Should've-canceled late. An hour into our reservation, we approached GM (and co-owner) Kerri Foley: We didn't know how much longer our friend would be. Did we need to move? No, she said, smiling, it's fine. Meanwhile, our waiter refilled our water glasses, explained the wine list, poured some samples, and stood by politely until our dinner party was complete. Such moments test the true colors of a front-of-house team, and Foley's staffers—admirably polished and gracious—passed with theirs flying.